FRIDAY, APRIL 25, 2014 - REGGIO EMILIA, ITALY - HOTEL POSTA, TOURS OF CHEESE FARM & BALSAMIC VINEGAR FARM & DINNER

We awakened fairly early in the surroundings of the beautiful Hotel Posta which is located right in the historic center of Reggio Emilia overlooking the Prampolini Square.  The hotel is housed in a medieval building that has been a hotel for over  five centuries.  From 1200-1514, it was the residence of some very important people.  It became an inn called Locanda del Cappello Rosso in 1515.  Having been updated through the years, this property boasts comfortable and elegant guestrooms, a meeting/conference room, a fitness room, and a welcoming bar.  Upon checking in the previous night we had met the hotel owner, a young man named Umbarto Sidoli  who appears to be in his late 30's or early 40's.  Umbarato's wife had, just the previous night, given birth to their first child, a daughter, Elena. 

In planning this stop in Reggio Emilia, Joy made inquiries about the activities that others had written about on Trip Advisor.  She inquired of the hotel about arranging a visit early in the day to Parmigiano-Reggiano, a cheese farm and then for the evening a tour and dinner at Cavazzone Balsamic Vinegar Farmhouse and restaurant.  Everything was confirmed until a few days before departure from home when Joy received an email stating the Friday, April 25 was a national holiday in Italy and it was unknown if the previous confirmed schedule could be accommodated.  So we arrived to learn at check-in that everything was arranged and the cheese farm tour would be at 8:30 a.m. on Friday.  The hotel had a nice breakfast buffet that we all visited and were ready for our tour at the stated time.  The tour was to be given by the hotel owner, Umbarto Sidoli.  We had to provide our own transportation (taxis) to/from the farm.  So, we used two taxis for the transfer and Umbarto traveled on his motorcycle to the farm outside of town.
Umbarto began by showing us some cheese wheels in the drying process before they were removed from the molds.   

And addressed the labeling process.

Here, the wheels (still in the molds) are floated in water as a part of the curing process.

And then the molds are removed and the finished product, once labeled, is placed on a drying rack.

 Note the labeling in the next 3 photos.

Now to the beginning.  Inside this large kettle the milk is "worked" with wood paddles to form the cheese wheel.

 

The wheel is lifted out of the liquid using cheese cloth.

Here it is tied to the pole and drained.

And then the top for the mold is placed on it followed by the sides of the mold.

Here, proud father, Umberto, is showing off a picture of his new daughter.

The tour ended and we visited the farm's gift shop where some made purchases of cheese to bring home.  Then we took taxis back to the hotel where a very important politician from Rome was visiting and making an important speech.  The whole area was swarming with police officers.  (Umberto had warned us about this event and assured us there was nothing to fear.)

 

*****

 

To pass through the security to get into the hotel we simply had to tell the officers that we were hotel guests.  After a half hour or so, we departed from the hotel walking through the piazza to an adjoining piazza where we saw these statues.

 

 
And the Cathedral of Reggio Emilia.  It is one of the three main religious buildings in the city and northern Italy.  Built originally in Romanesque style, it was largely modified in the following centuries. The façade that had originally 13th centuries frescoes is now housed in the Diocese's museum.  The current façade is unfinished, with a 16th-century covering in the lower level, with pilasters surrounding niches with the statues of the four patron saints of the city. The main portal has two statues in a style influenced by Michaelangelo, portraying Adam and Eve. In February 2009 it was announced that a Roman mosaic floor filled with scenes depicting pagan rites and oriental gods was discovered underneath the Cathedral. The mosaic pavement, which measures 140 square feet and dates to the 4th century AD, was unearthed at a depth of about 12 feet below the ground during archaeological investigations in the crypt of the Cathedral. The size and design of the mosaic pavement suggest that it formed the floor of a huge room.

Door of cathedral.  (for Carol)

 

Inside, the cathedral was very beautiful.

Outside, the children played, sat on the lion and posed for a picture to be made.

We walked through various neighborhoods, seeing beautiful buildings like these.

 

 

And, another door.  (for Carol)

 

And, stopped for lunch at a fast food type pizza restaurant.   While we were there some political protest group marched down the narrow street with some type of equipment that made a lot of smoke.  Realizing the smoke would engulf the restaurant, the operator quickly closed all open windows and doors.  But some of it got in as the smoke completely filled the street.  Except for the smoke it was a peaceful demonstration.  Once the smoke cleared everything returned to normal.

 

After pizza, we walked back to this gelato shop that we had noticed earlier.  The gelato was good, but not as good as what we had in Florence.

The lady in the shop didn't speak English but made very interesting looking cones.

 

We returned to the hotel for a little "R&R".

In the late afternoon we made the 10 mile trip out in the countryside, via 2 taxis, from Hotel Posta to Cavassone Balsamic Vinegar Farm for the tour, followed by dinner in the restaurant.  There was no charge for the tour and guests of the Hotel Posta were given a 10% discount in the restaurant.   The vinegar farm is owned by the same family that owns the Hotel Posta.  However, the taxi fares were substantial; 2 taxis 120 Euros each way.  

 

I'm sorry that I failed to carry my camera so I have no pictures from the tour or the restaurant.  The tour for the six of us was not only informative but enjoyable and we came away with much more appreciation for balsamic vinegar than before.  Our tour finished about 45 minutes before the restaurant opened so we had plenty of time to stroll around the property and enjoy the views of the city. 

 

Dinner was one to never forget.  We had five courses served leisurely with the restaurant manager  telling us (in English) about each item that was served.  I was one of the two who drank wine and we shared a nice bottle of sparkling red wine that paired perfectly with the food.  When anyone was served an item that he/she liked very well, and it had not been ordered by anyone else, they passed around small portions so everyone could taste if they desired.  On three different occasions during the meal everyone in our group, who wished, was served balsamic vinegar of three different ages designated by label color.  A red label means the vinegar has been aged for at least 12 years, a silver label that the vinegar has aged for at least 18 years and a gold label that designates the vinegar has aged for 25 years or more. Of course the ones who liked balsamic vinegar overwhelmingly liked the gold label best.  And, it was the most expensive, of course!  The meal 2.5 hour long meal was one to savor.  The taxis were called and we returned to the Hotel Posta for the night with the thought of an early train for tomorrow.